South Park pinball - kenny mountains REMUX

@mjalexan created some great kenny mountains for replacing plastics and protecting the optos. However, I have good plastic on the left side of kenny, but still wanted to use the mountains.

I modified the upper and lower, and added a middle-upper base, to allow for the use of the mountains WITH the plastics. I have two takes on this. uploading Type 2 first. Also, at least on my South Park, kenny hits the original model, leaving scuff marks over time (i've seen this on another machine), so I modified the original models to have a cut out so that won't happen.

I printed these in PETG. PLA+ is probably fine, but PETG should hold up better.

Model Type 2:
Uses the original playfield plastic post bolts. This was built because I didn't really want to use a standard wood screw, as ass the thread widths I could find were slightly wider than the studs, so it seemed safer to use the OEM stud.
Base:

• To use the OEM posts, the two mounting holes were shortened to flush mount the nuts on the 530-5010-02 post stud. The holes were widened, which required a small bump-out that won't ever been seen to ensure the walls had enough thickness
• opto hole slightly widened
• 1mm shaved off from both the top and bottom of the model to accommodate the original plastics.

Middle:

• UPDATED: increase thickness to allow for slightly longer screws.
• the middle is made just a bit wider than the original plastics to both protect and cover up the artwork making it all look like mountains.
• there are three screw pilot holes added that line up with the upper mountain screw holes.

Upper:

• on the bottom of the model, two recesses were made to accommodate the posts and fasteners.

Right side:

• I haven't finished the rear cutout or mods to use the original posts yet. Those are coming next.

Assembly:

1. Suggest fully removing the plastics here first. if you loosen the plastic "enough", you can gently lift the plastics and insert the base from behind, but i don't recommend this. Things can go VERY wrong...
2. Screw the posts in to secure the base. To screw the posts in, you can start with a socket/wrench, but will need to use a double-nut solution using 2 #6-32 nuts together to fully tighten the part to the playfield.
3. remove the double nut(s)
4. put the plastics back in
5. the posts should stick through the 2 holes in the playfield plastic.
6. put the "Middle" piece on top of the plastic, being sure to run the upper post bolt through each hole.
7. screw on the 2 middle #6-32 nuts, one on each post. Don't over tighten. The nut will just barely fit.
   NOTE: it's possible to use a nylon lock nut on the rear post, as the hill had more room to accommodate the added height (recommended).
8. set the Upper on top of the Middle. It will sit flush. when seated correctly.
9. Attach the Top to the Middle using small screws (size TBD). These would be the same basic screws as with the original model, but need to be shorter:
   IMPORTANT!!!! the screw must be between 6-7mm or risk damaging your original playfield plastics. I suggest test fitting prior. The middle holes are ~2mm, and the entire base is 3mm thick. If you only have longer screws, you could probably use small washes to make up the difference, BUT BE CAREFUL!

TODO: maybe make the Middle have outside drop edges to further protect the plastic.

Type 3 Model:
This model will be uploaded soon. It uses 2 #6x2" or #6x2 1/4" wood or trim screws. The threads seem to be slightly larger than the original posts, so there's a slight possibility of oversizing the playfield hole, so use at your own caution. Much simpler to install, though. Since I don't have the original model files, just the STL, and I stink at modeling, the uppper part of the hill looks a little funny where I filled in the holes. When it's printed out, though, it's not really noticeable.
COMING SOON!