GSO 2" Coma Corrector Focuser drawtube Adapter for T2 tops

What is it ?

This is a nosepiece/adapter ring that sits between the 2" GSO Coma corrector and any T2 threaded accessory (using the M48-T2 ring included with the Coma Corrector) and allows it to be dropped directly as a nosepiece over a 2"-capable focuser tube.
I'm not entirely sure if there's a standard for drawtube sizes, but I assume this should work with focusers designed for swappable nosepieces up to 2". This has only be tested on my scope (A Skywatcher Explorer 130P) that came with two nosepieces; One for 2" eyepieces, and one for 1.25" EPs. These adapters fit into a 2.25" (~57mm) hole at the top of the draw tube and sit there, kept in place with thumbscrews. This 3D piece essentially turns the Coma Corrector into another adapter I can swap in instead.

I designed this piece so I could use an helical focuser and my camera with the Coma Corrector. Without this piece, any accessory mounted on top of the coma corrector that is not wider than 2" will not provide a "stop" to prevent the coma corrector from going down the drawtube.

UPDATE: I've added a version that goes between the coma corrector body and M48-threaded accessories (like the included 2" eyepiece "cup" or M48 extension tubes) instead of T2 (M42) accessories.

What I use it for?

In the pictures I'm using a short 1 cm extension tube, and a 1.25" Helical Focuser on top that gets me an adjustable distance to my eyepieces. This setup also allows me to easily swap the helical focuser with a previously prepared combination of extensions and adapters (measured to put my camera sensor right at a proper distance) to place my camera instead of an eyepiece.
Notice that the extension tube could go under the printed part instead, if I ever need the coma corrector to sit closer to the secondary mirror.

Warning

I would appreciate reports of success with other brands and models of telescopes, but please check carefully if it would work with your telescope before printing.

Printing

I would recommend printing it upside-down ("top" of the piece in contact with the printing plate). If printed that way it requires no supports.
I think I printed it with a resolution of 0.2, in PLA.