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    Voron 2.4 R2 Electronics On Back of Printer

    Voron 2.4 R2 Electronics On Back of Printer.

    This project is to move the electronics from under the Voron 2.4 Printer to the Back.
    The High Voltage (120v) all stays under the Voron 2.4 Printer.

    I tried to use what I could as not to have to buy anything extra.

    If you have already switched to CAN Buss for the Tool Head it will be easier than what I had to do.

    I tried my best to include all the files and information needed to make this project but if I missed something please ask and I will do my best to help you.

    Pictures

    I took as many pictures as I could but if there is something you are not sure about, ask me and I'll take a picture of it for you.
    Also, the acrylic back panel acted like a mirror in the pictures so please ignore some of the back ground. I did remove my face and arms in some so if they look a bit funny that's why. You can mostly see the shades in my office in the left upper side of some pictures. I'm sorry the Raspberry Pi Mount is blurry.

    Pieces Parts.

    Other than the Back Panel and the Enclosure Front Cover all other SVG files are available if you don't want to print out the side pieces of the enclosure and the big opening in the Back panel at the top. These are Optional Parts.

    I printed the outside of the enclosure using a 0.6 nozzel.
    I printed the DIN Rail mounts and the smaller brackets using a 0.4 nozzel with the Big Tree Controller mount with a 0.6 nozzle. It's all up to you.

    I used Polymaker PLA Pro filament.

    If you are not able to find anyone to make the back panel for you, you can make one yourself using ABS 1/4". It is much easier than Acrylic to cut with a saw and drill and won't crack. If you have a drill and a Jig Saw you can do it. Just go slow and measure twice.

    Instructions

    • First start by getting the replacement back panel made for the printer. It covers the entire back so anything attached to the 2020 extrusion on the back will have to be removed.

    • You will need to print the spacers too before putting on the back panel. It will give some space between the screws and the gantry which is very close to the back panel.

    • The back panel is smooth and the spacers I smoothed out with a file so I didn't use any foam tape.

    You can skip this next step and do the electronics and come back to this I would mount the bottom center support as the wire are going to route through it though it can be done later with a bit more work.

    • The 6 supports are next mounted to the back panel of the Voron in the holes cut for them. See below for the Screws and hardware used.

    • You can also install the side walls and top pieces too. The bottom walls can be done if you have already mounted the fans or you can wait till later.

    • Now it is time to remove the electronics from the bottom of the Voron including the DIN rail.

    Make sure to label the wires and take pictures so you can easily put them back to the correct places on the back of the Voron Printer.

    You may need to get some fender washers or 3D print something to cover the hole in the bottom panel that the screws went though and reinstall the screw after you remove the DIN Rail. I used washers to hole up the panel.

    I left the two controller fans to give the power supply some air flow.

    • Mount the DIN Rail to the back of the Voron Printer. I used lock nuts but it's up to you.

    I made new mounts for all the electronics to shorten their height as the walls are only 60mm tall.

    • I also ran a 18 AWG wire from the DIN Rail with a ring terminal connected to one of the DIN Rail Screws to the bottom of the Voron Printer and screwed it in one of the open ground screws I had.

    • Mount all the hardware to the DIN rail.

    I also bought a 1 pair to 6 pair power distribution board but you don't have to. You can use any other method to split the power which is only 24 vdc from the power supply.

    • Route all wires needed to the back panel through the 1" hole at the bottom.

    This includes all Stepper Motor Wires, Fan Wires, Thermistor Wires, any Stop Switch Wires.

    If you are using CAN Buss then all the Can Buss Wires.

    Some of the Fan Wires I had to use an extension wire I purchased from Amazon though they were 1 meter long so I did shorten them later. Unfortunately the shorter ones were more expensive by a lot.

    I had intended to put a filter on the fans on the underside but found out later that I didn't have space for the panel side of the filter to attach so I left the part of the Fan Filter as a finger guard. You can switch from Flat Head to Button Head if you don't need the Fan Filter unless you use a finger guard on the bottom. You may need a bit longer screws for that.

    I switched from the old 4.3" LCD Display to a 7" HDMI Display.
    I made a case and mounting brackets for the top of the Voron Enclosure. I plugged the HDMI and USB cable from the Display to the Raspberry Pi 4 with no problems. I didn't make any changes to the display on the Raspberry Pi 4 that I remember.

    The USB cable is for the Touch Screen.

    Links are for reference only. I do not make any money from these links.

    Electronics:

    3 - 60mm x 20mm 24V Cooling Fan Dual Ball DC Brushless
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYYWWLPT
    1 - LDO Fan Splitter 3 Connectors or Equivalent
    https://www.fabreeko.com/products/3x2-xh-splicer-pcb
    1 - 30Amp 48V 2x6 Position Terminal Block Distribution Module
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09D3BV22M
    1 - aceyoon 3 Pack 90 Degree USB C Cable, 0.6ft Short Right Angle Type C Charger Braided USBC to USB A 20cm
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096VYVR17

    Display Hardware Parts and Cables

    1 - GeeekPi 7 Inch Capacitive Touchscreen for Raspberry Pi, 1024x600 IPS LCD Display with Dual-Speaker, HDMI Portable Monitor
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJWXWJ6K

    1 - Twozoh 90 Nylon Braided Micro HDMI to HDMI Adapter Cable - Supports 4K/60Hz, 100p (0.6FT)
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PYXLK23

    1 - CableCreation 4K HDMI Cable Right Angle 270 Degree Upward - Supports 4K@60HZ Ultra HD for Gaming, Streaming, Movies, Male to Male, 3ft Black
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FM5080Y

    1 - USB C Cable 3.3ft, 60W Type C Charger Fast Charging, Nylon Braided Right Angle USB C Cable, 90 Degree
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DQ86DVV1

    Hardware:

    Back Cover
    24 - M5 x 14mm Button Head Socket Cap Screws
    24 - M5 T-Nuts

    Din Rail Mount
    4 - M5 x 12mm Button Head Socket Cap Screw
    4 - M5 Lock Nuts

    Electronic Box Corners and Side Mounts
    8 - M4 x 25mm Button Head Socket Cap Screws (M4 x 22mm wouldn't stick out so much)
    8 - M4 Nuts
    4 - M4 Flat Washers

    Fan Splitter Mount
    2 - M3 x 6mm Button Head Socket Cap Screws
    2 - M3 Voron Heat Inserts

    Electronic Box Side Cover Fan Screws
    12 - M4 x 35mm Flat Head Socket Cap Screws
    12 - M4 Nuts

    Electronic Box Side Covers
    40 - M4 x 12mm Button Head Socket Cap Screws
    40 - M4 Nuts

    Electronic Box Lid
    6 - M3 x 10mm Button Head Socket Cap Screw or Thumb Screws

    LCD Mount
    8 - M3 x 10mm Flat Head Socket Cap Screws for Voron Mounting Brackets to LCD Brackets
    2 - M3 x 12mm Socket Head Cap Screws for Extrusion Mount
    2 - M3 T-Nuts

    LCD Cover
    4 - M3 x 12mm Socket Head Cap Screws for LCD Brackets to LCD Case
    2 - M3 x 10mm Socket Head Cap Screws for LCD Brackets to LCD Case
    4 - M2.5 x 10mm Button Head Socket Cap Screw for LCD Case to mount LCD

    Updates:

    07/18/2025 - Added Fan settings for Voron Printer as Text File.