Summary

EDIT 1/10/2017: Finally got around to printing the model! Check the instructions below for slicer settings and tips.
EDIT 8/17/2015: Added "HighRes ToT Arch (Repaired) STL" for easy printing!

I created this model to test my printer's capacity to handle overhang as well as calibrate its retraction settings. Printing instructions and slicer settings are listed below.

I hope that you enjoy the model, and if you do please let me know!

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Ultimaker

                                            <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>                     <div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://ultimaker.com/" target="_blank">Ultimaker 2</a></p></div></p>                                                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>                     <div><p>No</p></div></p>                                                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>                     <div><p>No</p></div></p>                                                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>                     <div><p>0.15 mm</p></div></p>                                                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>                     <div><p>20%</p></div></p>                                                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>                    </p><div><p>Print <b>two</b> of HighRes_ToT_Arch_Repaired_STL.stl and glue them together to form the completed shape. Alternatively just keep the arch by itself.</p><p>The make shown was printed on my Ultimaker 2 using PLA. I sliced the model in Cura <strong>(I had to scale the model down to 80%)</strong> with the following print settings:</p><p><strong>TIP</strong>: <em>The very bottom of the model is quite small; strong bed adhesion is recommended. It may be easier to print if you "sink" the model into the buildplate by translating the model in the negative Z axis just a bit (so that the model has a larger footprint).</em></p><p>Temperature: 200 C<br>Build Plate Temp: 65 C<br>Infill: 20%<br>Print Speed: 50 mm/s<br>Travel Speed: 125 mm/s<br>Layer Height: 0.15 mm<br>Build Plate Adhesion: Brim with 10 mm width<br>Wall Thickness: 1.05 mm (3 lines)<br>ZHop when retracted is <strong><em>enabled</em></strong><br><strong><em>NO SUPPORTS!</em></strong></p></div>

Post-Printing

Post Processing

            <div><p>Printing without supports may lead to some drooping. However after going over the entire structure with a good craft knife and cutting it all off, it looked perfectly fine. Also, I realized that the two halves didn't quite sit flush, so I sanded the ends of each a bit until it fit a bit better. I held the bottom half of the arch in a clamp and dabbed some Gorilla Glue over all the edges, pushing the two halves together, then letting the glue dry. That's it!</p></div>

How I Designed This

About the Design

            <div><p>This particular fractal is a slight tweak from CmdrChaos's "Low Calorie Torus" (<a rel="nofollow" href="http://cmdrchaos.deviantart.com/art/Low-Calorie-Torus-344056205">http://cmdrchaos.deviantart.com/art/Low-Calorie-Torus-344056205</a>). My version simply tweaks some of the totoricalIFS values (specifically mulA1 and subA1). This model was created using Mandelbulb 3D, a free fractal rendering software.</p></div>

Torus of Terror (Fractal Torus Shape)